I'm back with a new build article - sorry for keeping you on hold. :)
Ive had a busy time at work with us (Minicars that is) attending the Nürnberg show with our own booth and also starting building a new T2-44 prototype. To add to the list that has happened during the article break I've also built some T2-21 stuff to friends in the UK... :)
It's now time for making the rear ski-ramp (version 1)!
KEP's T2 .21 Presentation
KEP's T2 .21 Freebie
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #1
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #2
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #3
KEP's T2 .21 "Inspirational" Article
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #4
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #5
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #6
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #7
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #8
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #9
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #10
Here you can see two ski-sides that has roughly been cut out too big. The side material I have used is the same as for the tub sides. The white squares are thin double sided tape
that is used to attach the two ski-sides together during the shaping process. That's the same procedure as when shaping a pair of tub sides...
Here the ski-sides are together and marked out. The flat parts have been sawed out in the band-saw and sanded flat, smooth and at 90 deg angle. When that is done you saw out the bottom part and carefully shape that.
Take the two ski halves apart and remove the left-over tape. The ski-deck and ski-bottom should be 1.5 and 1.0 mm plywood. It really doesn't matter if you use the 1.5 as a bottom or deck - if the other is 1.0 mm... The end result will be about the same.
Use a steel ruler as a glue guide for the first ski side to be glued. Tack it in the rear (on the oposite side as where you have the steel ruler) and make sure it's at 90 deg vs the deck (ZAP CA Green/medium). Move along forward and press the ski-side towards the steel ruler to keep it straight... When you have tacked it all the way to the front you can put a bead of ZAP along all sides. Leave it to soak in and use kicker after about a minute.
Draw a parallel line 30 mm from the outside of the glued ski-side as the ski width should be 30 mm... Start with aligning the rear ends so they are square and tack it at the rear with CA glue. Then you use the steel ruler again as a glue-straightness-guide again and make sure you follow the straight and parallel line.. When done put a bead of glue all the way around...
Sand/trim the protruding plywood deck edges flush with the sides.
Ski bottom. Start at the rear where the bottom of the ski should be perfectly flat. Glue the ski assembly to the plywood bottom pressing down until the glue has set. Then put more glue on the utside joint for lets say 50 mm at a time and move forward pressing down until you have glued it all the way to the front. Saw it out and trim the protruding edges flush with the sides.
Also the rear edges is sanded flush and smooth.
Sorry for blurry picture but this it what it shouldlook like now.
Mark the ski-deck with lines as to where it should be cut out for clearing the stuffing and flex brass tube. Use a cut-out disc in the Dremel and cut it out. Sand the edges smooth and double check on your T2 tub that you have clearence.
NOTE, the ski-ramp should NOT be glued to the tub!!! If you do that you are missing the point with the T2 design and you cant adjust or change it etc. Included in the design there is about 1 mm allowance for double sided tape and if glued directly to the tub it will sit (permanently) at a wrong (non adjustable) height. That will most likely make the boat run too light on the front sponsons.
Next: KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #12
Post a Comment