Now its time to make the bulkheads and start assembling the tub!
KEP's T2 .21 Presentation
KEP's T2 .21 Freebie
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #1
Tub BulkheadsCarefully check the PDF's for the dimensions of the bulkheads. If you build the T2 to the specs you can drill the holes for the linkages, cooling tube and the stuffing tube before you glue them in.
The sides of the bulkheads need to be of the same width (as close to 62.0 mm as possible). The #3, #4 & Transom also needs to have the bottom edges/corners at true 90 deg. The upper part of these 3 bulkheads can be a little bit too high as they are easy to cut down after they are glued in.
Bulkhead #1 & #2 just needs the sides to be parallel as they are hanging in the air when in the jig so booth top and bottom edges can protrude (up/down) from the tub-sides. They will also be cut down after all the bulkheads are glued to the tub-sides.
Here you can see bulkhead #3, the deck-doubler and bulkhead #4 and the marked-out tub sides. Note, on my T2's I added a third tube in the bulkhead #3 - an 12x10 aluminum tube (the same tube we glue in the sponsons and tub for the sponson tubes). The purpose for that is to get an good solution for the wires for the upcoming telemetry... Note also the flushed brass inserts for the numberplate.
Close up of the #3 bulkhead while gluing.
After an hour has passed you can start removing all the clamps. Be a little careful as the tub-frame at this point isn't that rigid yet. Now its time to add some more ZAP-a-gap CA glue to the glue joints. Add another bead of CA glue holding the tub-frame at an 45 deg angle. Do a couple of joints at a time. Let the glue soak in and after a minute, take some house-hold paper and wipe most of the CA glue away. Spray a light coat of CA-kicker to those glue-joints and move on to the next... Repeat until you have re-glued all bulkhead joints...
Done, for now. Go and take a cup of coffee! :)
KEP's T2-21 Build Series #3.