The first article in the KEP's T2-21 build-series!
KEP's T2 .21 Presentation
KEP's T2 .21 Freebie
Note 1. Some of the pics in the build series is from me building the prototypes that are a little bit different to the T2 freebie. I will point out when that is something you need to know...
Note 2. Most of the pics are taken with the iPhone so do bare with me regarding lack of picture quality. ;)
Print the PDF'sYou have downloaded the PDF's and had them printed out on A1 sized drawing paper by a print-shop in 1:1 scale / 100%, right? If so, here we go...
Make the templatesCut the paper copy of the templates out with a pair of scissors - leave them a bit rough. Use spray glue and attach the paper templates on a 1 mm thin plywood and cut them out in a band-saw. Use a small plane or a flat bar-sander with 80 grit sandpaper and shape the template edges. You should shape it out so the outline is removed or just barely visible. If you can see the outline of the template the parts will be too big... When you are satisfied with the shaping use a drill press and a 1.5 mm drill bit and carefully drill holes exactly in the middle of the marked out holes.
Make the tub-side laminates
Cascol Polyurethane. Or Gorilla Polyurethane glue if you are not in Sweden. Note, I earlier recommended Titebond-III to be used as a glue when doing the laminates. Even though you get a good glue joint with that it will be booth heavier and crate a softer laminate vs a PU glue.
Take the tub-side laminated sheet and cut that in half so you have two pieces that are about 50x700 mm. Use pieces of normal carpet-tape and stick the two laminates together.
Now you need a band-saw with a decent fresh and sharp blade. Adjust the band-saw so it will do straight cuts etc. Start sawing the tub-sides! Make the cuts AT the line - Not outside the line. When the tub-sides are done the complete pencil line should be just about gone...
After you have cut them out you need to shape the edges smooth and make sure that the edges are straight and true (90 deg). I highly recommend Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar sanders (GPMR6170) with the most course adhesive backed sandpaper (80 grit) for it (GPMR6180). That's in fact the only sand paper I personally use for the sanding bars.
Use a steel straight ruler and check that the edges are true and straight and a true-angle square to check that the edges are 90 deg.
Use a drill-press so you know the holes will be straight. Also use a wood base underneath the tub-sides while drilling. Use gentle force and go slow while drilling - especially when your just about going through as the drill-bit can make the lower/outer plywood split...
Glue small 10x10 mm cover pieces of 1 mm plywood on the inside of the threaded inserts to make the holes water-proof. Make sure that there is no glue that will drip down in the threads. This step can wait also until you have glued all the bulkheads that will be showed in the next build article. (The picture shows a tub side from one of the prototypes - that had a stepped deck and we used soft gaboon plywood.)
Mark the insides of the two tub-sides where the bulkheads will be located.
Done for now - next steps are bulkheads and setting up the simple glue-jig. :)
The second article in the build-series is HERE.
Post a Comment