KEP's T2 .21 Presentation
KEP's T2 .21 Freebie
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #1
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #2
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #3
KEP's T2 .21 "Inspirational" Article
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #4
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #5
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #6
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #7
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #8
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #9
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #10
KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #11
Now it's time to do the final preparations to start preparing for paint... What you should do first is sand everything the way you want it to be. Be careful and sand smooth and straight, pay attention to the corners etc. There are a few places where you should keep the edges on the "sharp" side. That is the ski and the separate running pads for the front sponsons. Sand the edges flat and sharp to begin with on these parts and then just slightly smooth out the edges... Just a tiny amount. In a perfect world you should/could keep them sharp but in reality its hard to get any paint to stick to a sharp corner so if you want to paint the parts that will be in contact with the water (ski & sponson running pads) make sure you put some radius on them but as little as possible...
Of that same reason - I personally don't paint these items. I only use epoxy on them - no paint - no clear coat. The epoxy I use is water tight though - so far we have had no issues with that and it's a bit easier to sand the edges sharp(er).
NOTE: the rear ski-ramp should NOT be glued to the tub permanently. It's meant to be mounted with thin double sided tape so you can change it or adjust the height etc. If you would glue it directly to the tub it will sit at the wrong depth and the boat will most likely run too light on the front sponsons in race waters.
epoxy. I have also made some extra running pads in different thicknesses: 2, 2.5 & 3mm thick. There are also a few different ski's in there that will be tested during the season. I'll get back when they are tested and if I have found anything that is an improvement. :)
Epoxy Resin C + Hardener C and its simply awesome. Protective gloves, house holf paper of a high quality that doesn't brake up when handled so to speak, a micro weight scale, mixing bowls and a bunch of good brushes that don't release any hairs.
- Brush on mixed epoxy (note that C+C is mixed 100:60 (resin:hardener) everywhere on for example the tub first. Use a brush to spread it and move fast - you don't want it to "kick" before you are ready. In the radio room and the "bate box"- use your glove protected fingers to reach areas where a brush won't do the job (like under the deck parts). Also use a small rod to spread the epoxy resin into the holes - but don't fill the holes. When all parts are covered with the epoxy use your hands (with one or two layers of protective gloves) and massage all areas of the parts you just now have brushed on epoxy on...
- Then use the good household paper and start to remove as much as possible of the still not hardened epoxy...
- The idea of this first layer of epoxy is to get it INTO the wood. You don't want it to create any gloss surface so to speak. Remove as much as possible. BUT there is an exception and that is the bate box (the small area in front of the transom) and the radio room. These are so tight that you will not reach them to use any sand paper afterwards so you can leave a little bit more epoxy here but not too much.
- When you're done with lets say the tub, move on and do the rest ot the parts in the same way and let it cure for at least 24 hours...
- Sand everything smooth again and blow off any dust.
- Re-do the masking tape.
- Start over again with layer #2 of the epoxy resin. This time it's a little bit different as it's easier to brush on the epoxy as the wood surface now is smoother. If you use the R&G C+C epoxy it's perfectly safe to only use 2 layers of epoxy before paint/clear so when you are repeating the process and are removing the excess epoxy with paper rags you can leave a slight glossy surface. But just a tiny bit...
- When all of your wood parts are done twice you should leave them for at least 48 hours before any final sanding. But the engine/tank compartment could use a third layer of epoxy and that you could do in between so to speak. If you are in doubt - leave all parts for a complete hardening for a week in room temperature before any final sanding will be done to start prepare for paint/clear. Remove the masking tape first though.
- When all parts are fully cured it's time to do the final sanding! Be careful on all edges so you don't sand through the epoxy down to the wood.
- I also re-drill all holes at this time to remove excessive epoxy build-up.
Next time it's paint and clear coat in: KEP's T2 .21 Build Series #13