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I have just uploaded all the pics (183 to be exact) from our trip to Abu Dhabi and the UIM F1 H2O GP. Watch the photoalbum HERE.
BaBa F4S boat of Team Mad-Croc.
One of Marit's F1 props. All F1 props are done by one US guy.
Very old-school Mercury 2.5L V6 2-stroke motor. One of the suppliers of con-rods for these are this guy.
Its actually a "prop" he's carrying... They use it for stationary engine tests at the pontoon...
The front part of the tunnel of a Italian made BaBa F1.
On Sunday after the race we went to the newly opened Ferrari World outside of Abu Dhabi. Its just next door to their F1 racecar track. This is the famous really quick roller coaster - but we couldnt go... It was closed. Crap.
At an earlier F1 H2O race in China (I think) Jay Price used this newly designed special version of the DAC. Its shorter and wider. He crashed it at that event and now the Cappelini factory guys (DAC) where repairing it...
In the photoalbum you can see more pics of it...
Swedish star Oskar Samuelsson did well at the two F4S races and he won the championship!
Bimba Sjöholm was not really up to speed this weekend - she use an older Mölgaard F4 hull then Oskar = not fast enough... The limited power from the Mercury 60HP engines make the hull very important...
We made it back from the United Arab Emirates and the F1 H2O GP of Abu Dhabi... The weather was awesome (30+C), the city was "interesting", the partying was 100% and the races wasn't that bad either...! ;)
This was early on when we had the last dinner in Abu Dhabi. Mats behind the camera, Anders & Anders to the left - me, Erik & Stefan to the right.
One of many taxi drives in UAE. Do note, the "MAP" button doesn't work - as in absolutely no GPS function... Most drivers, one would think, would hit the "LOST" button quite often but that was not the case! LOL. You better know yourself where you are going as the drivers most of the time have no clue and its not helping that the buildings aren't numbered either. Brilliant. ;)
We where guests of Jonas Anderssons Team Azerbaijan - he dnf:ed though with a throttle cable "link" coming loose. At that time he was 6:th I think... Crapers. Marit Strømoy (Team Azerbaijan) finished 8:th.
There was also two F4S races held in Abu Dhabi with two Swedish racers, Oskar Samuelsson (in the picture here above) and Bimba Sjöholm. Oskar won the first race and finished third in the second to secure the over all win (I think).
49:ers in Abu Dhabi... Been there, done that. ;)







Frank has installed an CMB engine - I do believe Chris used to have an Novarossi engine in it when he raced it in the US.
Hmm, plastic prop? ;) (that was just for the very first run)
And yes, green is Frank's favorite color! But I get a feeling he likes fluo-orange now also... ;)



Here's an easy winter project for anyone that wants to be able to check their outrigger set-up without the need to buy any expensive digital AoA device. You can measure the sponsons & strut AoA quite easy when it stands on the set-up board. Do note, the actual AoA reading will be slightly less when you do like me vs. if you turn it up-side-down and use an digital AoA device that you lay on the bottom of the sponson ride pads. That is due to the fact that when it stands on its own "feets" and with the normal weight of the RTR boat the sponson tubes gives/flexes a little... But that is the way it will do when running it also, right?
My set-up board is a 19 mm MDF board that I have cut to 1050x630mm size. You need to check what size is best for your boat(s). Mine is for 21 and 45 sized riggers. Holes are cut-out for the turn fin and rudder.
These are the AoA tools you need. The green tool is the one you use when checking the front sponson AoA. I made mine out of a fiber glass sheet that was 3.2 mm thick - perfect. But you can make your own tool gauge out of any flat material that is somewhat rigid like aluminum, carbon etc. The thickness must be either 3.0 or 3.2 mm though - columns for booth thicknesses is included in the chart. Make at least one long edge of the tool gauge straight and at 90 deg. Thats the edge you will push against the running surface of your front sponsons. Its easier if you make booth edges equally straight and true then you dont need to make sure you have the right edge.
Now stand the rigger on the set-up board with a laminated (or not) chart including the small one for the strut (so its level and on the right height on all corners). Align the trailing edge of your front sponson ride pads to the base line of the chart - see the above picture.
Then you use your newly made tool gauge that is either 3.0 or 3.2 mm thick and lay it on the chart in front of the sponson to be measured. Then push it carefully back until it touches the bottom of the sponson. Make sure the gauge tool is aligned and parallel to the lines in the chart. Read the AoA to either the left or right column depending on if your tool is 3.0 or 3.2 mm thick. In this case the AoA is 3.59 degrees as my tool gauge is 3.2 mm thick.
With a set-up board its also easy to check the turnfin angle. First I make a line with a permanent market at the first bend. That bend I want to have perfectly horizontal = not angle up or down.
Set your rigger on your new set-up board and use a steel ruler and the permanent marker again and draw a second line that now is perfectly on the water edge level.
Now you easily can see if your turn fin is pulling down or lifting. As a base set-up the two lines should to be parallel. Make adjustments and wipe off the top line with denatured alcohol and re-do the last step until you're satisfied with its angle.
In April 2009 I published this AoA chart that you can use to measure AoA angles of a rigger also. The chart is made the other way around so to speak if you compare it to the chart where you use a set-height measuring tool gauge (as with the front sponsons). Here you actually measure the height at a given length away from a base line. Thats perfect for smaller AoA angles as in the strut and rear sponsons...
Place your rigger on the set-up board and align the small chart with the strut rear edge at the base line. As this is a .21 rigger I will be measuring at the 40 mm mark.
Use a set of feeler gauge blades and slide them under the strut from the front until they stop at the 40 mm mark. In this case it was 1.00+0.15 mm that was needed.
If you take your printed out AoA chart you can see that 1.15 mm would be just between the 1.10 and 1.20 mm heights = 1.64 degrees of negative AoA on this strut...
In July I published an article about sponson tape and how to make a rear sponson mounting jig. Thats the jig you see in the picture here above. The AoA PDF chart is used in this case also to calculate how thick the spacer blocks should be to give an preferred AoA of the jig. Click HERE for that article and more info.